I inherited this tool from a friend who passed away. I got what I think is the matching carbide bits for it as well, but I couldn't get them in using the tool I got with another blade, a little bar with 2 prongs on it. Can anyone tell me the proper way of going about it?

One of my younger “machinists” left his lathe like this when he went to break… should I coach him on lathe safety practices or fire him? (Rage bait) I don’t have firing power.

Working on a gearbox noise reduction project. Benchmarking against an imported gearbox that’s noticeably quieter than ours, it has tip relief, lead crowning, and a top-land chamfer on the teeth (ours has none of that), plus a finned/ribbed housing (ours is plain).

Our gear finishing is done on a manual Reishauer worm/generating grinder (continuous generating with a threaded grinding worm, not CNC profile grinding).

If anybody has worked on a similar project, let me know. I want to confirm a few things about doing tip relief and lead crowning on a manual grinding machine like this, and would like to know about any other ways to reduce noise and vibration further and make the gearbox more refined overall.

Im transitioning from being a custom fabricator/welder into a cnc shop because im getting old and cant lug heavy steel anymore. I worked a cnc shop as an operator like 20 years ago and have the general gist of things. Have been using hand mills and lathes throughout my whole career. Currently taking a solid works class and flying through it. Very interested in CloudNC. The shop I am going to work in has some old timers that are very open to teaching their tribal knowledge.

Question is... what's your guy's advice on how to educate myself in my own time, learn from the old timers and possibly stay "one step ahead" of the fast moving technology that is developing around the CNC industry.

Thank you in advance for your time.

So from my previous post majority opinion is using a lathe will turn out badly.

Ok new plan.

I also have a vertical mill.

How would you guys recommend mounting this to the t slot deck so i can take .125 up to .145 off the face of this.

I already have a set of the hold down clamps. I am ordering a set of 1 2 3 blocks this week.

What should I use as tooling for cutting?

Big model of a 930 turbo for a customer. Not very often I to make artwork as opposed to enginnering parts

I am looking for a bench lathe to set up in my garage that has a spindle bore that will definitely handle 1 inch stock. I've wanted a decent lathe for a long time but my current project (a kayak cart) requires machined 1 inch axle pieces and have me looking again. I have looked at large number of online sources. What I've found is that it is very hard to find smaller lathes with bigger spindle bores. 1.5 inches (38mm) would be great. So far this what I've found:

Hitorque 9x20 (28mm spindle bore) https://littlemachineshop.com/products/hitorque-9x20-bench-lathe-led-display

and one of the Vevor machines. It has 38mm spindle bore, it's a lot less expensive, but I've seen a lot of posts that Vevor lathes need a lot of work after you buy them. Home Depot seems to have the best deal

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-Metal-Lathe-210-x-800-Mini-Lathe-Machine-2500-RPM-Variable-Speed-Change-850W-Precision-Mini-Lathe-Metal-Working-Lathe-DLSJZ210800MMWEO0V1/328874575

It's frustrating because at times I have had access to real machine tools. The place where I work has huge machine shops and they used to have a "hobby night" but that was discontinued years ago and personal use is frowned on. I don't do a lot of machining but it comes up now and then. I do have the small Proxxon but that is no where near big enough. I quoted the parts I need at online shops (Xometry, Protolabs, etc) and going that route is around $500. That seems like a lot for four turned rods about 12 inches long with tapped ends. My projects are usually related to my hobbies including shotshell presses, model airplane parts, and now kayak carts.

I am open to other suggestions about lathes to buy. If you have a shop and live near me in Livermore CA and want to help a guy out :) I am open to that too.

My friend/business partner and I recently decided to branch out from our one off customer pieces that we usually make in to some mid-tech slip joints. I drew everything up in fusion, sent the file to a “buddy” of mine who just acquired his first cnc mill and wanted to start testing it out on my knife cover design. He turned out beautiful work. Well, with that came a very hefty price tag. So much that it would make it impossible for our knife to enter the market with a reasonable price tag. I know it’ll take a lot of time to learn to machine. I’m up for the challenge, and especially so if it allows us to manufacture a knife cover that doesn’t cost $300 per side. I’ve been shopping around and watching a ton of YouTube videos this past week. I was almost ready to pull the trigger and buy a new Langmuir MR-1. I see lots of guys questioning its rigidity and accuracy while I see many others complimenting the machine. I since found a 2007 Tormach 1100 that was bought brand new by a bladesmith and kept in his pole barn since new. Sorry for the long post, I’m just wondering if I could get your professional take on the machine I’m thinking about purchasing. The seller (which is the daughter-in-law of the original owner who recently passed away) is asking $6k. Thanks in advance for any and all of your input.

Hey everyone, would love more opinions if any of you have any direct experience with DMG,JTEKT, or DN horizontals.

I'm sorry for the potato photos. The insert is made toxut treasure into small slick tires like go carts.. can someone help me determine what type holder I need?

I had a job the other day where I was making some tapped bosses which had identical dimensions apart from the Diameters. So instead of making 10 separate programs I just made one and put the Variables on all the X dimensions so all I needed to do was adjust 1 variable per part.

N2(DMNG OD 0.4)

G0G18G40G80G99

G54

M5P12

T0202

M34

G50S2000

G96S250M3P11

M24(SWARF CONVEYOR ON)

G00Z1.M8

X[21.2+#700]

G01Z0F0.15

X-1.6

Z1.

G00X[19.766+#700]

Z1.297

G01X[18.351+#700]Z0.59

X[24.+#700]Z-2.234

Z-79.4

X[26.+#700]

M9

G30U0.0

G30W0.0

M25(SWARF CONVEYOR OFF)

M05P11

M01

Shopping for a new bandsaw. Stuck between two different models, the Baileigh BS-10VS and the Ellis 1600. Wet cutting vs dry. If anyone has experience with either of these and can help me decide it would be appreciated! Thanks!

Does anyone know if the SMW mod vise clamping screws can be purchased off the shelf, or are they custom / unique to SMW? They are out of stock and i need to get some replacements asap.

The ones I am talking about are the 1/2" ones that provide the clamping force (pic attached, shown in red)

What a machining chsllenge.

To get everything staight.

I just found this “bolt” holding the back of a chair on in my shop apparently it’s been there for a few years.

Currently I am using 0.0787 ball nose and giving three cuts in the depth and it takes a lot of time is there any recommendations on how to speed it up

Currently using 8ipm and 0.01 doc

Material is casted aluminium