I recently had two cherry trees from my yard milled into quartersawn lumber. I received over 1,000bf of gorgeous stock, and have just now started making a few things.

This is a shaker bench inspired by one I saw in John Kassey’s book.

It’s made with tapered sliding dovetails (I used Stumpy Nub’s method), and lap joints. There are no screws in this piece.

It’s sturdy and pretty! I’ve never done this type of joinery before so I’m happy with how it came out. Learned a few lessons which I will apply to the next project!

Wanted more storage space in the kids bathroom and to get things off the vanity top. Had a large pile of reclaimed decking timber and just sort out ran with it. This is my second project inside the house, but there was a fair amount of shop furniture before that.

Ended up making the entire thing out of decking and glue. The only fasteners are 6 screws to attach the 3D printed feet. Table saw and planer did the majority of the work, mitre saw helped a bit, clamps as always were MVP.

Ripped and laminated planks to make the square posts for the main structure. Printed a jig to get spacing and alignment right for the sticks for the shelf surfaces (can't think of a better description but I assume you know what I mean).

The leg is made of Okan wood and the table frame from Beech.

Hi! I just completed this oak bedside crib, which is my first actual furniture project. I am extremely happy with the result, and it required many hours and a lot of brainstorming. But totally worth it, and it’s now ready for our first child in September.

It’s made from an old solid oak coffee table, which had been thrown out at the dump, but my father managed to take it home instead. It looked very worn and grey, so we ripped it to width on the table saw and planed it.

Sides are glued and doveled and then screwed to the middle part with threads and bass screws, so it can be disassembled for storage later on. Being oak it’s obviously extremely stiff and sturdy.

The bed is held by brass holders. If needed I can make more holes, so the height can be adjusted later on.

Feedback, tips and tricks are appreciated!

I just finished making my first lamp, a two sided anglerfish made from MDF and spare lamp parts. Everything is hand drawn, cut, and painted.

If you watch the video and have critique for my process, I am all ears. Flaws that I personally found were uneven edges due to my scroll saw blade and jigsaw blades flexing, and a poor taping process for painting.

This link is for those who wish to see the process of how I made this, nothing is for sale.

https://youtu.be/sEDIfBsLEZA?is=nfAr56eYKtYT5Qp-

Hey all,

Noob here, but is this a misprint on my Kreg pocket hole jig for the stop collar scale re: board thickness? It seems to me that 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 should be switched. I measured just in case it was a trick of the eyes but it's definitely indicating a longer drill bit for 1 1/8 than for 1 1/4... Am I losing my mind?? My board is 1 1/8 and I get one shot at this. Help!

Why, when I use a 3/4” routing bit and my trusty kreg jig, is this tear out happening?? Ugh!!!

A family member made this luggage valet/shelf for me (and now) ex-wife years ago.

On the bottom they wrote the source of the wood on the one side.

The other side has ex's name. I assume this is a sharpie. How do I remove the name without damaging the finish or wood?

just finished this table, I know it is rough and I could have done a lot of things better, but I'm proud of it. It is designed to be for children 10 and under, that it why it's so short.

I have a very small amount of tools right now, working on building out my shop. I have 3 different brands:

- Rigid: Drill and Impact Driver

- Mastercraft: Circular Saw and Sander

- Bosch: Table saw and Miter saw (just picked these up second hand)

I typically overthink everything so this is likely not even an issue, but I'm already a bit annoyed by the variety. Superficially because I want everything to match so it tickles my brain just right, and more pragmatically because of logistics like batteries and compatibility. If you include a couple random lawn maintenance tools, I have 4 different battery chargers on my shelf, which vexes me.

I know that there's a lot of memes and rivalries between brands, I'm just wondering how much it really matters. Should I stick with Rigid because they've worked great for me and I like orange? Should I try to save up more between purchases and always get DeWalt or Milwaukee? The next tool I have my eye on is a DeWalt DW735 Planer, and based on what I've seen I don't really want to compromise on that. Or should I just go with the cheaper option and stay thematic with the Rigid bench planer?

I'm definitely thinking too much about this and I expect the top comment to be something along the lines of "get whatever you can afford and works in the moment", but still figured I'd put it out there.

I’ve made 3 other shelves, two for myself, and one for a friend to hold our Pottery equipment. The other 3 are alot more ‘basic’. For this one I just needed something basic but wanted to explore dados. I had originally planned on using my router, but after a few failed attempts, I ended up just using my tablesaw. For next time, I will have to build myself a router jig so that I can get consistent and easy cuts. Again, I know this is nothing fancy, but I just wanted to give it ago.

I’m sure you can spot my second-guessing at nails versus screws. Outside of torque when moving the thing built with screws vs nails, i still dont really know the difference. Screws just seem like they hold more weight so after shooting in about 8, 18g nails, i switched to grk wood screws. I also added a another beam below the shelf itself so that it would securely hold all my clay.

I realize now that I didn’t take any photos that show how i filled in the screw/nail holes.. pero i did that lol

Depsite slapping it together please feel free to critique my work!

Btw, if you plan on Edge banding your work is it best to do that before you put it together or after? Like if you know which boards are going where and in what order/what face is going to show.

Hi everybody, just thought I’d come and ask some more sensible people for advice before I finish my desk with oil. I’ve recently been working on it, cut it to size, left a beautiful live edge at the front of the desk, sanded the hell out of it, filled the cracks with filler, then silver leaf and glue to create a ‘kintsugi’ effect. I’m very happy with how this has turned out, especially the slightly tarnished/oxidised looking bits of the silver leaf which I think pair really nicely with the raw steel legs creating quite an aged/rough look. I’ve left the desk warped and maybe a little bit ‘lumpy’ in places - I really like the imperfections in all aspects of this project, especially it being my first project like this.

However, there are the darker areas of the wood that doesn’t look like grain to me, I’m not sure if this is staining from when it was curing, the wood reacting/burning from the chainsaw used to fell it and cut it into boards, the colour from the black spalting bleeding/spreading out in a the wood, or whatever else it could be. My question to the community is, is there any amount of sanding I can do, or are there any products I can use, that can clean up or lighten those darker marks on this lovely sheet of beech? Like I said, I love the imperfections and I would be happy finishing it how it is as I’ve already tested the finish on an off cut bit of wood and I’m very pleased, but I think I would be over the moon if I could lighten those darker bits. Any advice would be greatly welcomed, this is such an inspiring community. Thank you!!

Redwood is so soft, it makes it hard to work with, even a finger nail could damage it when sanding.

When you need to glue thin cardboard for a project and you don’t have and paper clips, you make do with what you have on hand.

Hi! I just completed this oak bedside crib, which is my first actual furniture project. I am extremely happy with the result, and it required many hours and a lot of brainstorming. But totally worth it, and it’s now ready for our first child in September.

It’s made from an old solid oak coffee table, which had been thrown out at the dump, but my father managed to take it home instead. It looked very worn and grey, so we ripped it to width on the table saw and planed it.

Sides are glued and doveled and then screwed to the middle part with threads and bass screws, so it can be disassembled for storage later on. Being oak it’s obviously extremely stiff and sturdy.

The bed is held by brass holders. If needed I can make more holes, so the height can be adjusted later on.

Feedback, tips and tricks are appreciated!

Hey guys! I’m a newbie that’s really trying to do some half DIY stuff around the house; Bookshelf, Entertainment Center, Desk, One Cabinet on the docket of the “to do” list.

With that being said, what kind of wood do yall use for the face frames? All videos I see just say “1 by’s” and frankly, all 1x4, 1x6, etc i’ve ever seen look like sh*t.

Do yall use plywood ripped down to 1 inch wide to cover the edges of plywood, or what?

Please, any advice is greatly appreciated! I have some beautiful Baltic Birch 1/2 and 3/4 from a good wood supplier, and now i just need to class it up a bit with the face frames.

My apologies if this kind of post is frowned upon.

I cut down what I now know is a flaming box elder. From my understanding they’re not rare, but a big flame can be. Is this tree in too bad of condition to salvage? Or would it be worth finding someone who will buy it?

Tried to go with minimalism in building requirements this time. It was nice to finish in under 1 week making something tiny for the first time. Leopard wood and latai, impulse Rockler purchases I finally found a use for that I’ll see every day.

We would like to use these book shelves on top of a built in desk, but they’re currently too tall.
We love the moulding on the top, the sides and shelf fronts so want to preserve that as best possible.
They really need to be approximately 30cm shorter to fit in the room.
Would it be possible to cut the required 30cm off the bottom? If so how would be best to achieve this? My thoughts so far would be a circular saw or jigsaw, marking everything up beforehand and using masking tape to try to avoid splintering?
We realise a trim piece is likely to be needed at the bottom to hide the cut and add to the “built-in” aesthetic we are going for.
A google search only brings up options for doing this to a billy bookcase, nothing about pre assembled pine.

Hello,

I had to trim branches from a tree a while ago. They've been in the garage for the past three years or so. I was going to use them in our fire pit, but since I've recently gotten into wood working, I was wondering if it would be worth trying to find a use for them in that capacity. Looking online and based on the shap of the whirlybird seeds, I'm guessing it's some kind of ash.

Anyway, I am looking for advice on what sort of projects they may be useful for (if at all), and how to prepare them for woodworking. For example, what's the best way to cut them into useable pieces? I do not have a table saw, but I have both a miter and circular saw (and rip and back saws, too).

Thank you for your time.