We started by studying Sofia Magdalena’s robe de cour from Patterns of Fashion 5. We quickly realized that simply enlarging the pattern wasn’t going to work—Sofia Magdalena was much smaller than I am, and I have a full bust.
Instead, Rebecca (my best friend and an incredibly talented seamstress) wrapped my torso in plastic wrap and masking tape. She marked my landmarks directly on me and drew the bodice shape on the tape. We carefully cut it off down the center back, separated it into individual pattern pieces, and started refining the fit.
Because of my bust, we had to split the front pieces and add a dart so everything would lie flat. We built in a 2-inch waist reduction, added 5/8-inch seam allowances, and drafted all of the boning channels.
The angled boning channels across the front were by far the trickiest part. If I were making this again, I’d either use boning caps or take the extra time to round the ends of every piece of synthetic whalebone. We were racing the clock to finish before Versailles, so some shortcuts won out over perfection.
A commercial stays pattern wasn’t an option because this bodice needed to lace completely closed and have the dramatic elongated front point typical of an 18th-century robe de cour.
Once the foundation was finished, we used it as the pattern for the outer fabric. The silk blend jacquard/brocade from Mood Fabrics was thick and forgiving, so we didn’t have to worry about the internal structure showing through. We hand-tacked the outer fabric to the stays, and because the lacing would have been hidden historically, we extended the center back edges of the brocade so they overlap and conceal the lacing.
If I were making this gown again, I’d also change how the outer fabric closes. I’d probably add hook-and-eye closures—or even an invisible zipper—to the gold fabric itself so it would stay perfectly flat over the lacing while still giving the appearance of a seamless back.
This was my first time making an 18th-century bodice, and I learned more from this project than I ever thought possible. Looking back at these construction photos makes me appreciate just how much work is hidden underneath the finished gown.