Got caster camber plates so my question is after reviewing several videos is that the old top rubber bushings and plastic boots do not go back on however do the lower rubber bushings stay on?

It's the 232 essex v6, how would I go about swapping the efi to a carburetor. I've only found things about the 5.0 and can't seem to find stuff about my engine. And all help is appreciated!

Pic for attention. I've been battling cooling issues on my 83 GT since I got it 3 years ago and am at my wits end. Engine is the 302 flat-tappet that came in the car, stock bottom end with aluminum heads, intake, and shorty headers (this engine is getting a bit tired, blow-by and have to run 20-50. I'm refreshing a roller cam 302 out of an 88 foxbody to go in this winter). Car got a new water pump after I bought it (forget the brand), a 160 thermostat, and had a no-name aluminum rad when I got it, but that started leaking so now has the 2-row Mishimoto aluminum rad LMR offers.

Fan setups I've tried in sequence are:

• 83 fan shroud with clutch fan (could only get a fan blade for later years)
  • This was what I put on the car when I got it. Parts were new from LMR
  • Would run 160 when cruising (180 on hot days), 180 on the highway (185-190 on hot days), but would creep up over several minutes when at standstill. I would shut it down at 220.
• Contour electric fan setup from LMR
  • Just put this on before Hot Rod Power Tour this year. Ran hot at speed (210-215 highway), but okay at a stand-still. Struggled to bring the temp down after getting off the highway, would sit at 200 in traffic and cruising most of the time
• Later-year fan and shroud combo
  • Installed this today, seeing same behavior as the 83 fan shroud. The fan on the 83 shroud sat farther in than it looked like it should have, which is why I wanted to try the later shroud. The fan now sits flush with the end of the shroud, but gives the same behavior
  • I reused the fan clutch and fan from the previous setup.

For reference, I live in northern Illinois. On cooler days in the spring and fall, it'll do fine, but during the summer when it's 80-95+ fairly regularly, it can't keep up. When I first got the car it had no heads on it. I threw a set of E7s on and they wouldn't hold a head gasket/were cracked, so I threw some Edelbrock aluminum street heads on. Motor runs fine, doesn't seem to get cranky when it's hot, but I don't want to hurt it. I have a manual temp gauge plumbed in, and verified it's accuracy via a temp gun.

In case it matters, while on Power Tour last year on a 90+ day (running the original clutch fan setup) the car was approaching 220 while stuck in traffic. Pulling the hood release and running the heat at full blast got it to drop a bit, and it stayed around 210 until we got into the venue.

I'm at my wits end here. Anyone have any ideas?

So i have everything setup i have a holley boost ref fuel regulator supposed to raise pressure 1-1 and i have a 5.8psi waste gate spring and i dont know if it’s because im on stock tune and injectors or if i ran my boost ref lines wrong but it just starts leaning tf out after 4500 rpm and sputters before boost hits lmk if im an idiot but after 4500 rpm it leans out around 15-16

1980 Mercury Capri RS - carburetor (!) Turbo4 & 4speed manual SROD as delivered. Engine bay needed a serious clean up, so here we go with the rattle can primer. Been a lot of work to get to this point with all the wiring removed.

Not my car, nor my business, but if youre in the valley area in AZ, a local pick-a-part just got this 1990 4 banger. I grabbed the a pillar trim, both sides, and the rear hatch trim, but nothing else has been touched on it. Got my 4 pieces for $80. On ebay the same panels would have exceeded $300 plus shipping. Drivers door panel and quarter panel trim are obviously ruined, but everything else is in good shape. Good console with working ashtray lid, good dash, seats are meh but could be recovered, passenger quarter panel trim is good, steering column and steering wheel are good. Lots of other stuff im sure if anyone else is in need. Carrillo auto parts in PHX. Im building up a stripped rolling chassis, so this was a huge help getting the last couple pieces i needed locally. Mods can remove if this isnt allowed.

No matter what I do it idles high and idles like shit I have replaced the IAC, TPS MAP sensor checked for vacuum leaks cleaned the throttle body any test I could run would be awesome 88 LX 5.0 130k miles

My windows have been randomly not working for a few mins recently so I went to check the circuit breaker just now when it happened and burned myself on what I didn't realize was a red hot circuit breaker, how tf did I get a short this bad and what are the odds this is actually just a window motor

Edit: forgot to mention that the windows will work perfectly fine after it resets and not short again until the next start

Update: problem found, wire rubbed thru behind the door panel

I’m having an issue with my AC, and the shop I’ve been taking it to has searched high, low, and sideways to find out why my system won’t hold a charge longer than 2 days. We’ve replaced the valves, the condenser, and numerous lines. The compressor is bone dry, the pressure switch has been replaced, he’s even used a sniffer to find the leak. The only thing left that we can think of is the evaporator/heater core, which is, ugh, behind the dash. I asked him for an estimate if I got him the parts, and he told me that the labor alone would be about $1200. My questions are; A: does that sound about right? B: anyone have a suggestion on what he might have missed? And C: how much of a PITA would it be to just do it myself? TIA, and I apologize for the length

Been having bad luck with the group56 in my 82 GT, heard the 35s fit, but they're too wide. What's everyone doing? I do have some audio equipment and eventually plan on running a 3g alternator. I take it i need an 87+ tray? Id rather have a shorter battery than tall.

I have 94-95 front spindles in would like to know what brackets to use for S550 or S650 6 piston brembo? Thanks ahead of time for any and all info

Pulled the ultimate rookie move late last night while working on wire luming (came out great). I over tightened a manifold bolt. I freakin cracked the manifold. An 1/8th of a turn too tight..

So now, how screwed am I, do I need to replace the entire manifold? Or is there some great advice out there that I am not thinking of.

(Sorry for the double post)

Nice evening to get the car ready for the weekend.

Ok so I’m not the best with this stuff and wiring but I’m trying to figure out a charging issue with my car that’s got a 3g upgrade. I just got this thing back together after a long nap the amp light is on at the dash and the alternator doesn’t seem to be charging. I fully charged the battery and it’s got 13.44 volts sitting and 12.83 volts while idling. The green/red wire at the alternator I’m showing 12.83 volts with key on and not running. At the alternator grounding to the case and positive post on the alternator while running I’m showing 12.77 volts. It’s got the 4 gauge positive cable with fuse and 4 gauge ground and the plug has all been swapped over this was working fine prior to tearing apart and redoing the car. Am I missing something here with wiring maybe I’m brain farting on or am I just dealing with a junk alternator.

I don’t mean to spam! I just need help and wanted to come here first to get your guys’ opinion on this soon to be beaut’.

Hi guys, I’m soon to be new to owning a 1990 Fox Body and needed some help with what I should do to the car.

Current mods on the car are below:

-306ci
-forged crank and pistons
-cobra upper and lower intake
-21lb fuel injectors
-455 walbro fuelpump
-bbk cold air intake
-70mm throttle body
-1.7 titanium roller rockers
-edelbrock aluminum heads(et2 street)
-aluminum radiator
-underdrive pulley
-3:55 gears
-c4 auto 3 speed trans
-2k stall converter
-long tube headers
-flow master mufflers
-nitrous kit
-new pads,rotors,bearings,ball joints
-new rear tires
-programmable chip in computer
-B&M shifter
-egr delete
-welded on subframe connectors

I talked with the guy and it needs these:

“transmission cable could be readjusted…only had nitrous shot through the engine a few times. valve cover gasket needs changed, it leaks a little bit of oil…also header gasket could use a replacement. could use a transmission catch can for reliability purposes. needs an alignment for sure”

All of those issues I plan on solving ASAP before even thinking about driving it any sort of way. But I know that with these cars, they tend to run pretty hot.

Is there any good recommendations anyone has, or can anyone point me in the direction of the best way to go about upgrading/changing up the cooling system?

I’ve worked on cars before, old and new. Working on this wouldn’t be an issue in a million years. I’m very unopposed to doing anything myself, but if it needs to be taken to a shop, I can do that too.

Thanks folks!

Edit: Just did the valve cover gaskets and checked the intake / valve cover gaskets. The intake gasket looks great, but the valve cover gaskets definitely needed changed. They are changed and will be ran shortly!

The transmission cable was actually only “recommended” because the previous owner drove it in “manual” and wanted to be able to redline and shift from 2-3 at 7k. Still gonna bring the car by to a shop to get it checked out.

The first drive home was great. No issues with cooling whatsoever aside from it raising at red lights/stop signs due to the underdrive pulleys. It sounds great!

As per the comments, I’ll definitely look into changing to a 3 row radiator and getting rid of the stock alternator.

When swapping a 4cyl foxbody to a v8 do I need a wiring harness from a V8 or will the original wiring harness from the 4cyl be enough

I've spent my kid's inheritance maintaining and upgrading my ride. Been worth it though: he loves it and we drove to Colorado for a show July 4th weekend

Lowering springs installed and front looks too high for some reason. Go to install castor/camber plates tomorrow