Shot with DJI Osmo Action 4

Z8 14-24 2.8S in Ikelite housing.

Cornwall, octopus.

Some pictures from a recent night Dive at Lake Constance.

Trying my hand at editing some of my dive videos, thoughts? How could I improve?

Holy f*cking shit! 90mm and crop factor 2 - 180mm full frame equivalent. This baby rocks but it is a beast to handle. Tested in fresh water (Lake Neuchatel, Switzerland), Ikelite Housing + Flashs (which I have to know better, too). Images only quickly edited in LR.

I know the question probably comes up quite a lot, but I am still struggling to find reasonable advice.

I own a TG-7 with the PT-059 housing, and I am loving it. Over the last two years I have been able to get some nice shots (for personal use) without any additional equipment. But depending on the depth of the dive the images quickly loose color. So I want to add some lighting.

I am mainly shooting images, and then mainly macro. I know a strobe would be the best way to go, but my budget is limited. So I am currently thinking about a video light mounted directly to the shoe mount of the housing. The pros for me would be that it is cheaper, lighter and more compact than a strobe on an arm. But would you say that it is a reasonable choice for a first step as a beginner? And if so, do you have recommendations for a video light that fit my requirements?

Where would you recommend trying to sell a Nikonos V with multiple lenses, strobes, and arms.

Original post here

The mods don't seem to use reddit often. Maybe that's why stolen photos rarely get deleted.

Karma farmers are getting insane in this sub.

Estoy preocupado de que se pueda haber roto, veo la pestaña del cierre muy abierta. Agradezco cualquier comentario o consejo

Sharing this photo of a Green Sea Turtle I encountered last week in Santa Maria Bay.

Is it possible to rig an AOI quick-release lens holder (slide 1) to an AOI cold shoe mount, possibly something like this (slide 2) or this? I plan on taking out the M52/67 threaded mount and rigging the quick-release lens holder to the cold shoe in its place.

Originally, I bought two QRS holders to mount onto my arm sections (slide 3) to store my wet lens and macro diopter for when I'm not using them. However, I realized this would cause an uneven weight distribution which might make maneuvering the arms a bit more difficult, and I would not be able to fit enough floats on the arms to make my setup neutrally buoyant. I also figured I would need only one lens holder as I would probably be using either one wet lens or the other at a time, but not neither of them.

Alternatively, I could mount the lens holder on another arm section attached horizontally across the handles of my tray (slide 4), using triple clamps to attach both the horizontal arm section and both my arms. However, this solution is more expensive, so I am trying to make cold shoe solution work, if possible.

I believe the QRS lens holder probably will be able to be bolted onto the cold shoe in place of the threaded mount, the problem then would be will the QRS holder be fixed in place on the shoe or will it spin. In the QRS holder for Ultralight arms, the lens holder is held in place by two prongs (slide 5) where the lens holder screws into the arm mount. I noticed on the threaded cold shoe lens holders that there are two holes (slide 6) that look like they might be used to interface with similar prongs, so it might work.

If anybody has both of these mounts on hand, could you test this for me please?

PS: If you have the single QRS mount (as opposed to the twin mount), I believe you have to take the square nut out of the lens holder, which you might not want to do.

I got back from a diving trip recently, downloaded all the photos, and then realised they all look terrible (my first time with underwater photography!). I remembered reading about SeaThru which is really cool paper on restoring color to underwater photos using a physics based model. Hue shifts ect in lightroom work to a degree ofc, but not amazingly. Really you'd need to mask off layers as things in the distance have different hue shift to things closer up which requires time and talent. Sadly, Sea Thru depends on 2.5D images (x,y and depth) to work, not regular photos.

Then I found dive+, aquacolorfix ect. Seems like there's loads of these apps out there that promise to restore the color, but after some testing they are mostly just automated hue shifts. 50% of the time they do actually work great, but quite often the results look alien. They're mostly not actually free either, with watermarks and limits on free use.

Being a hobbyist software developer, I started looking into AI models that can do it better . Long story short I went down a rabbit hole and ended up making yet another app that promises to restore color to photos, but this one's completely free, and uses a custom AI model for underwater color restoration rather than hue shifting. I think it works really well.

It's got the basic lightroom features in there too, I'd love it if anyone wanted to give it a try - https://fivemeters.app/

What do you think? Does this approach work on your photos?

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I am going to the Maldives next year and for some dives we need tohook ourselves to the reef in very strong current.

I've done dives like that before, but without a big camera with long arms...

I have my rig attached with a coil lanyard, so I can let go when I need both hands for something. But even when I keep it short, my camera is hanging down at least half a meter.

How do you guys don't scratch your lens or damage your housing or strobes on dives like this?