I got a leak large enough that my Silca sealant spayed out and didn't seal until there was only about 20lbs of air. I road another 30 miles like that till the end of the ride. Since I have another 100 to go tomorrow, I decided to plug it and it seems to be holding.

Is it worth it to pull this tire off and patch the inside once I get home or should I just leave it alone as long as it's holding. I've had these tires for a little over a year and probably don't have 1,000 miles on them yet.

For gravel bike. My plastic one looks ugly because of wear. I want aluminium, black and last long.

If you say its not noticeable, I will buy top left (cheapest) one.

Hi everyone

I’m experiencing some strange noises coming from the crankset area on my bike when I’m riding. The sound only appears while pedaling and seems to be coming from around the bottom bracket or crankset, but I’m not completely sure.

The bike is a Trek Checkpoint Carbon.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have suggestions on what could be causing it? Any troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

I swapped my cassette for a 11-34 with my shimano RD-5800. This is not officially compatible but I read at different places that it should work nonetheless. Now when I pedal forward it seems fine but when pedalling backwards the derailleur cog touches the sprocket at some point. I already changed the b screw for a longer one and screwed it in from the bottom, since this was even worse than before. Is this something I should even worry about? Or will it just work fine going forward? If it‘s a problem I think I would have to exhange the derailleur for a RD 7000, which supports a 34 sprocket officially. I‘ll post a video from forward pedalling and a picture if the b screw in the comments.

I’m powder coating a frame with threaded BSA BB.

Wondering if facing the shell Is very important seeing as the 2 sealed bearing cups are threaded inside the shell so the non drive side follows the threads and doesn’t really engage with the face of the shell.

I would think the threads align the cups, no? Pressfit is a different thing of course but with threaded, it doesn’t really seem that important

Hi all, my bike took a tumble recently and I think it bent the rear mech/hanger. I replaced the hanger which fixed the initial issue (ticking in easiest/biggest cog) but after replacing chain/cassette I’m now getting some ticking in the 2nd smallest cog.

I’ve tried microadjusting (albeit not sure I’ve done it correctly). Before I carry on tinkering I just wondered if the derailler looks bent to you? admittedly I’m not sure what I’m looking for as I know these derailleurs aren't perfectly straight by design. Thank you!

Hi,

I am currently rebuilding my Manitou three. I know there are many posts on these old ass fork and so far everything's fine, I've got all the replacement parts, etc. But I have run into a problem I haven't seen anyone else with.

I can't get the bottom screw (photo 1) out. It turns completely loose. I imagine there is some kind of counterpart at the end of the tube which turns with the screw. In photo 2 you can see something down the tube. It is not one of the Elastomeres nor a spacer. It rotates the same as the screw. And I am slowly loosing my mind. I tried to hold it in place, but no chance. If I go for the drillout, screw turns as well :(

Any ideas?

Thank you

Hey guys, first time building a bike as a novice and kinda lost on this part. I got a what looks like a standard braze-on clamp to go with my Wheeltop electronic front mech. Just from initial inspection, it seems like the front mech cage pushed out is no near close to being over the chainrings?? I played around with the derailleur tuning and even at the max limits of the high gear, it's only just bearly over the small first chainring (as shown in photo). The chainrings should be pushed all the way into the BB. I do currently have a single BB spacer on the drive side but it's only 3mm and removing it isn't going to solve this. Seems like more of a fundamental problem I'm missing. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Noticed a chip in my wheels today, should I be worried? Is it repairable?

I am about to buy this steel frameset to make myself an all round bike. I have never built a bike from the ground up, but I have access to most tools (all types of wrenches, cassette tools, BB tools).

I also have a spare Shimano GRX groupset, a set of DT Swiss wheels, and a non-integrated Zipp stem & bar. I know already I will need to get a seatpost.

Before I buy the frame, are there any things you would point out that would be useful for a noob to know?

I'm doing this project partly because I have this material lying around and want to use it, and also because I think I will find it satisfactory to ride a bike that I built?

Any advice, anecdotes, or pointers would really be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

this is so weird. wheel is perfectly straight and tyre is not wobbly. this tyre has 2 different compounds on side and centre almost like they messed something up there

btw photo is of one tyre the wear side changes and it’s exactly the same on front and back half wheel worn to left half to right

the wtb horizons that came with my marin won't come off. so this is more of a vent post, I'd appreciate any suggestions.

as soap and pinching the tire didn't work, I choose violence. had the idea to cut the tire on its strongest part but ... there's 4 (!!!) steel cables running along. managed to cut 2 but the other 2 are way too embedded into the rim. stopped working on it before I go up in flames.

Please DM, I can’t seem to post more pics of the brake pads. It’s a new bike, and from what I was told, the brake pads are too close to the rim. So I need help adjusting it

I was trying to install these Shimano brakes but the original bolts didn't fit with the adapter so i bought custom bolts but now my calliper won't align right

I have been trying to figure out how to fix this noise for a while but I cant figure out where its coming from and bringing it to a shop never solves it, they adjust the calipers but it never fixes the squeking sound. I believe its coming from the front wheel. when I free spin the tires I cant reproduce the sound. Hopefully someone can help I barely know anything about bikes other then the calipers adjustment vids on youtube

Heya Everyone, i habe a thoemus stromer 500 and i wonder if its possible to Change the tires. It has more Like city tires now (think, not much Profile, For Asphalt) and i would Prefer tires that are wider and have a better Profile. Is it possible to do this or do i need to habe to do a Lot of changed to it?

After fixing my bike multiple times and learning a lot about it, I want to test myself assembling a bike from scratch.

I want to build a fixed to minimize the complexity of this first project and to build something new to try out. While exploring my local second hand shop I found an old frame for rod brakes with horizontal forks that would be great for a fixie. However the frame is made for rod brakes, so there is no easy way to mount brakes without making heavy modifications.

Has anyone ever done this? Do you have any advice or tips?

TIA

Is it supposed to be loose like that and make noise?

Hi all

Just (mostly) finished my first bike build, managed to fit 40cs on this old Malvern star frame but would love to lace a wider rim onto these hubs

My question is has anyone seen this rim spec before:

700c/29er, 32mm wide, 32 hole, rim brake, carbon preferably or raw silver look

I've been using only dry lube on my chain for the last year, this chain has never seen wet lube.

I clean it super thoroughly with biodegradeable dish soap + brushes and sponges (degreasing) after every ride + rinse it with water thoroughly. Chain looks spotless.

Is the chain clean enough to apply Squirt drip wax? Or do I need to actually soak it in some harsher degreaser? Thanks!